THE news became official last summer. Spain is leading Europe for the production of organic agriculture, with 1.25 million hectares certified as organic.
There is quite simply no excuse, any more, to be forced to eat genetically-modified or chemically-treated fruit and vegetables. here.
And fortunately, many of the region’s restaurants have woken up to this fact.
Chefs such as Stefan Crites at Al Lago in Zahara de la Sierra, was shocked to discover so called fresh lettuces being kept in a cupboard under the cooker when he took over his restaurant. “These days most people demand decent fresh produce, he told me.
Over at La Costa in Almeria, it clearly hasn’t won its Michelin star for its meat or fish, but for its amazing selection of fabulous fresh vegetables, in particular the great local raf tomatoes (see photo).
One step better is the large organic vegetable garden of Fernando Cordoba at his benchmark restaurant El Faro in El Puerto de Santa Maria.
Then there is Arrieros in Aracena, Gadir in Vejer, Meson la Molienda in Benalauria, Venta Molina in Casares and La Casa Grande in Alpandaire. They all use local, organic produce.
But everywhere I went in Andalucia to research for my book Dining Secrets of Andalucia I found young and enthusiastic chefs planting their own vegetable gardens.
Some of them, such as Wes Somerville at El Limonero in Orgiva took inspiration, and even picked wild vegetables and spices along his track on the way to work.
A favourite choice, without a doubt, would have to be Caserio Ananda based at the train station in Gaucin. Using almost exclusively organic produce, it uses a wood smoke oven, and only orange wood to barbecue with. Finding the place is almost as exciting as when a train steams by.
Talking of trains, just up the same line, you will find another well established and fiercely green restaurant, that of Quercus, in Jimera. Run by a charming pair of ladies, it never disappoints and is about as good a secret as you can get.
Get out and get eating!
